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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.